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Today: Ass Handed To Me By Many Waves

I left Auckland at 8:30 yesterday morning and made my way to Piha, which is roughly 40 minutes outside the city on the western coast. The views are really really amazing. Piha is one cove over from the beach where they filmed "The Piano", think "The Piano" sans Harvey Keitel's ass, then you've got Piha, sort of. Anyhow, I met the man who runs this amazing lodge where I'm staying, Geoff, and he offered to take me into town with him so I could get some food supplies. There is no store or post office or bank or anything in Piha, hence, the hitching a ride. So we went into one of the sorrounding towns and I got some groceries, we then decided to go into Auckland so Geoff could buy a belt. This was great for me, I ended up getting a driving tour of the entirety of Auckland City and some of it's suburbs. Very cool. We then had to head over to Geoff's parents house so he could pick up something from them. They live in a town called Titirangi. This was a really cool little town that lays mostly on a hill side. His parent's driveway looked like a hiking trail, it went down into the bush like half a mile and wound down all these crazy turns. At the very bottom, there is a little drive where you can turn around, and the house. The house was very beautiful and looked out through the bush and onto the cove area of Titirangi. One we were done there, we came back and saw that after a stormy day, things had cleared up a bit and the waves were surfable, in fact, some people were surfing. I got all my stuff togethor and went down to the beach and began to paddle in. Needless to say, these waves were huge, like 4 meters, like 12 feet. Um, are you kidding me? Let me give you a little something to chew on: I'm a horrible surfer. Those things mix into a little trouble cocktail. So I had to figure out how to use the dangerous rip currents in Piha to get me out past the waves. This is much harder than it sounds and I kept ending up trapped in huge sets of waves getting my ass handed to me over and over. I did this for like 30 minutes. Just getting pounded and pounded. Finally I got out to the line up, and hung around, thinking to myself "Fuck, these waves are gonna tear me in half, besides the fact that I'm on a board 3 and 1/2 feet shorter than I usually ride." So I then proceeded to get surprised by outside sets and beaten and pounded all the way back into the shallow water. This experience repeated itself 4 times. I'd get throttled, then curse to myself a lot, then decide that if I didn't atleast paddle into one wave, I'd be very upset with myself. 2 hours later, and after my fifth time of paddling the long way out, I decided I could not feel my lower extremities and my arms were useless. I floated my way into shore like a piece of drift wood. First day of surfing, over. Cheers. I then walked myself back to the lodge, sans booties cause I'm retarded and did not wear them. Ouch. I made it back, washed all my gear, showered up and made some food. I spoke a lot with Catherine who is German and "woofing" her way through New Zealnd. Working On Organic Farms, employs these kids who travel round and get food and a room for working 4-6 hours a day on organic farms throughout the area. She was at the tail end of a year. Very crazy. Geoff then came over to the lodge and brought us down to the RSA which is sort of like an Elk's Lodge for retired service men. We proceeded to drink and play pool, before closing the place and continuing on on to one of Goeff's friends house. Kiwi's talk so crazy I could never quite figure out his name, Nigel? Malcom? Greg? Oh yeah, that was it, Greg. Except it sounded like Greeeiiiiggg. Wierd. The party continued onward and I excused myself and walked down the hill homeward to the lodge. Long first day. Today, It is very windy, raining on and off, my body aches badly, and I have to muster some guts to go paddle back out.
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4:47 PM

I'm glad you're having a great time, it sounds gorgeous...    



8:10 PM

Amazing!    



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